Break types
How the bottom shapes the wave
A wave is the swell colliding with what is under it. Sand, rock, headlands and jetties each shape that collision differently, which is why every spot has its own personality.
Beach break
Beach breaks form over sand. The bottom shifts with storms and tides, so a peak that worked last week may be gone today. The trade-off is that there are usually multiple peaks along the stretch, soft whitewater between them, and few hard objects to hit. This is the natural home of beginner surf.
Point break
A point break is where a swell wraps around a headland and peels along the rocks in one consistent direction. Rides are long, the wave is predictable, and the takeoff zone is small. That last part is the catch: everyone wants the same wave, so etiquette matters more here than anywhere else.
Reef break
A reef break is shaped by hard, immovable rock or coral. Because the bottom does not change, the wave is consistent at any given tide and swell. Because the bottom does not change, falling on the wrong wave is also consistent in its consequence. Reef breaks are not a place to learn.
Jetty and pier breaks
Jetties and piers stop sand from moving along the coast. Sand builds up on one side, which often creates a sharper peak right next to the structure. Be cautious of current along the rocks and of the structure itself; a swell pushing you into a piling is bad news.
River mouth break
River mouths can produce excellent, powerful waves because outflowing water shapes a sandbar offshore. They also concentrate current, debris and sometimes wildlife. Treat the outflow as a hazard you have to plan around, not paddle through.